From Kangaroo Island to Adelaide
DAY 65 - 18 MARCH 2023 (SHIP'S date)
ENROUTE TO BUSSELTON
Queen Mary 2 World Centenary Voyage
102 days, 31 ports, 18 countries.
Ellen Frazer-Jameson reporting from Queen Mary 2
Sadly, tendering at Kangaroo Island was a hit and miss and several guests including myself were unable to debark while others had to wait on the island for the tides to turn. The winds created a choppy and limited adventure into port. Force majeure. We weighed anchor and headed to Adelaide...
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WELCOME TO ADELAIDE
Adelaide is the capital city and most highly populated in the south Western state of South Australia; it is the fifth largest city in Australia. with a population of 1.28m. A coastal city situated on the eastern shores between Gulf. St. Vincent and the low-lying Mount Lofty Ranges. The suburbs stretch roughly 20km from the coast to the foothills.
Colonel William Light, one of Adelaide’s Founding Fathers, designed the city and chose its location, close to the river Torrens in the area originally inhabited by indigenous Australians of the Kaurna people. Today Adelaide is noted for its many festivals, and sporting events; its food, wine and culture, long beach fronts and defence and manufacturing sectors. It continues to rank highly as a liveable city, being in the Top 10 of the Economist’s World’s Most liveable Cities.
Adelaide was named 1836 after the wife of King William 1V, his Queen consort, Adelaide. It also became known as “The City of Churches” because of its religious tolerance.
Unfortunately, it proves difficult to find individuals who know the reasoning behind this title. “I guess there must be a lot of churches but I can only think of this one,” said the receptionist at the first church where I asked the question. “Why is Adelaide known as the City of Churches?”
When prompted, she remembered, “Yes, we do have two Cathedrals, St Peter’s and Saint Francis Xavier, the first is Anglican and the other one Catholic.” Reflecting on this information, reminded me of Liverpool in the North of England which has two cathedrals, within the city limits; one Anglican, one Catholic. Also, in the UK, the city of Norwich has 52 churches, one for every week of the year, and 365 pubs, one for every day of the year.
Easier to establish was Adelaide’s reputation for festivals. To prove the point, the city are hosting a festival this very weekend . Set in the heart of Adelaide on the busy Rundle Mall, between the city’s bustling east end and vibrant west, the pedestrian precinct has become an outdoor stage, over-run with musicians, buskers, live bands , trick cyclists, stilt walkers and fire-eating jugglers, all entertaining passing shoppers with their acts and working only for money in the hat.
Art and sculpture is a main feature in the highly popular mall. A giant replica of Salvador Dali’s, classic piece, Triumphant Elephant dominates the retail landscape beside the Rundle Mall Plaza.
To experience more Dali, an exhibition of his surreal art and sculpture, is currently on display at a local gallery, the d’Arenberg Cube, McLaren Vale, Adelaide. Rundle Mall also features a family of bronze pigs, one of whom is sticking his nose in the trach can.
As for sporting activities, Adelaide has two golf courses, one of which leads over the main road and players have to go out across a busy thoroughfare to take the next shot.
It is said that Adelaide has the second-best cricket grounds in the world, second only to, the hallowed ground, Lord’s in London. Adelaide Central Market is a firm favourite with residents and tourists alike. Proud to be a leading international culinary destination, food and produce is on display at the largest undercover market in the Southern Hemisphere . More than 70 local traders offer a huge range of uniquely South Australian produce and fresh food, including cheeses, seafood meat, bakery, fruit and vegetables.
This is also one of the places to find cafes and eateries featuring fresh food from the market. There is even a self-guided tour available on Market days. Foodies gather at The Market Stall and a tour through the market delivers a veritable feast. One word of warning: Australia’s strict bio -security regulations are enforced; the removal of food stuffs from the ship are strictly not allowed and customs have the powers to confiscate fresh food and produce. Flowers, seeds and plants area also not allowed to be imported onto the ship.
The journey by coach from Queen Mary 2 into the centre took close to an hour and that journey had to be undertaken again to get back to the ship. Inner-city travel is well provided for and Adelaide, like Sydney and Melbourne, has an extensive, efficient tram service. Free within the boundaries of the city.
There are also main line train servicing the suburbs and beyond. One of the distinguishing features of Adelaide and her local communities is that most residents do not live downtown in high rises or apartment blocks. Australia is suburban, and this is said to account for the universal popularity over many years of the global television show which starred Kylie Minogue and Jason Donovan. “Neighbours”.
There is also a co-relation between one of Australia’s most famous sons, actor and author, Barry Humphries AO CBE, and his brilliant creation, suburban housewife superstar, Dame Edna Everage.
Did I ever tell you the story of how Dame Edna, in his Barry incarnation, by a strange quirk of fate,came to my seaside home, took over the kitchen and cooked fresh pasta for dinner? The pasta was superb and Barry was a charming guest. It’s a long story, I‘ll save it for another time.
In King Willaim Street, Adelaide, several hundred cruise ship passengers await the complimentary shuttle laid on by Cunard, to take us for a day in the city.
It proved a good idea to leave for the return a little earlier than would have been first choice. Back on the ship and ready to depart Adelaide, an interesting situation occurred. A crowd gathered on the jetty to wave Queen Mary 2 goodbye. Mostly young people made up the crowd and they called to us as the ship pulled away from the quayside and passengers lined the rails,
“When are you coming back? “ they shouted, “Where are you going next?”
This was followed by the familiar Australian sporting chent, “Aussie, Aussie, Aussie” and cruise guests called back with the chant, “Oi, Oi, Oi.”
What made this so unexpected was that before the pandemic, and the enforced long cruising pause, there were always well-wishers in port to watch the liners sail out. It’s been a long time coming, but it now feels like things really are back to normal.
One of the delights of cruising is the constantly changing vista. We wake each morning to a new world view and wave goodbye at night to people who welcomed us. We are the wanderers, the crowds on the deck are the loyal friends and family members who joyfully watch as we sail yet again ... into the sunset.
Happy Sailing... Ellen
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NEXT PORT OF CALL:
BUSEELTON (MARGARET RIVER)
19 MARCH 2023
Current position of Queen Mary 2: Under way from Adelaide to Busselton (Margaret River)
Departure was 1 d 7 hrs 43 min ago. (at 18:00 h local time)
Arrival will be in 1 d 4 hrs 47 min. (at 07:00 h local time)
Traveled distance since Adelaide: 605.21 nm (1,120.84 km)
Remaining distance to Busselton (Margaret River): 690.69 nm (1,279.16 km)
Traveled distance since Sydney: 1,786.63 nm (3,308.84 km)
Photo of the day (from the archives of JD Schwartz)
Further updates will be posted as soon as we get them from Ellen onboard Queen Mary 2.